Our next stop in Belém is the undisputed star of the district, the Mosteiro dos Jeronimos (Jeronimos Monastery). I had never seen a monastery like this before, in terms of size, architecture, and ornamentation.
Built in the 16th century to commemorate Vasco Da Gama's voyage (Vasco and his crew spent their last night in Portugal praying in Belém before sailing for India) and to give thanks to the Virgin Mary for its success, this grand complex is the most impressive symbol of Portugal's wealth and power during the Age of Discovery.
This is also one of the most visited sites in Lisbon (along with the Belem Tower, which was built partially to defend it) and was declared by UNESCO as a World Heritage Site in 1983. It is a magnificent example of the Manueline architecture (named after King Manuel I), a lavish style unique to Portugal. It combines Gothic, Moorish, and Renaissance influences and is characterized by an elaborate use of sculptural details and maritime motifs.
We were there to see both the Church of Santa Maria and the adjacent two-storey cloisters. It was crowded that day. Inside the monastic church were flocks of tourists being given simultaneous orientation sessions by their respective tour guides in various languages. Our Tour Director found us a spot on the left wing, where our local guide proceeded to give us a background of the establishment and pointed at various objects, which she described in detail.
It was hard to take in such an enormous amount of information with so much chaos around us, so I just focused on visually absorbing everything. After all, I had never seen such unlikely features displayed on religious artifacts or used as themed ornamentation in a church. Anchors, anchor chains, sails, compasses, buoys, ropes, and cables reminded me of ships. Shells, pearls, corals, and strings of seaweed reminded me of the sea. A rich array of plant and animal figures alluded to exotic lands far away. Geometric structures reminded me of East Indian temples and South American pre-colonization monuments. So unique indeed!
Despite the cacophony of foreign images, they blended together so seamlessly to create an awe-inspiring display of Portuguese enterprise and innovation. Where else in Europe could anyone find a Catholic church and monastery such as this - one that has tiled walls painted with desert scenes...or chapels adorned with royal sarcophagi held by Asian elephants on each side...or ceilings bedecked with scallop-like arches, a roof with shell-shaped turrets, and a nave lined with tree trunk-like columns intertwined with tropical leaves and vines. It was truly a visual feast!
I was momentarily distracted when I heard Ms. Lady Ring Leader’s loud voice (She was a tour mate who was leading a group of senior travelers and was rather an interesting character; background info is provided in previous articles.) In response to someone from her group, who expressed awe and admiration for the monastery’s architecture and décor, she arrogantly declared. “We’ve already seen so many churches in Europe. You see one, you’ve seen them all. They're all the same!” And she made a dramatic, sweeping hand gesture, as if she's showcasing the grand prize in a TV game show.
I was completely aghast at this almost-sacrilegious statement and had to stop myself from giving her a good shake and saying, “Lady, didn’t you just listen to the local guide's backgrounder on the Portuguese Manueline style? Did you even pay close attention to the cathedral's unique features?"
If King Manuel could rise from his grave, I bet he would give her a good lecture, if not a smack on her not-so-royal behind. Or had our local tour guide heard her, she would have closed her mouth with duct tape, for what she just said was an absolute atrocity. Goodness me! It gave me the shivers that she dared call herself a “Tour Director!” If these are the kinds of commentaries she offers to her tour group, she should be banned from conducting cultural tours altogether and have her permit confiscated right away, that is, if she even had one. At that moment, I felt so sorry for the group she was leading.
My travel amiga from Edmonton (one of the other three solo travelers I was hanging out with) also reacted. She said that Ms. Lady Ring Leader should best stick with her specialty – casino tours and cruises for retirees. She mentioned the other night that our now-infamous tour mate is known in their community for these kinds of tours. Cultural and religious tours, like the one we were having, just come in between - some sort of a break from the slot machines and the Captain’s party nights. In those, she said, Ms. Lady Ring Leader could proclaim to her heart’s delight, “You see one casino, you’ve seen them all. You board one cruise ship, you’ve been on all of them.” That would have been closer to the truth and I doubt if anyone would refute that (and yes, not all casinos and not all cruise ships are the same, but you cannot compare them to ancient churches built in different historical periods and in distinct architectural styles).
Our two American amigas obviously heard her, too, and rolled their eyes in disbelief. The teacher from Maryland said, "Maybe she should take a closer look at the objects she's aimlessly taking pictures of and make some effort to grasp their historical significance and artistic value before making random comments like that. It's scary that she believes she's an authority on all things European just because she has traveled here before.” And the librarian from Colorado added, "She should really start reading more books on art, culture, and history...until then, she should just keep quiet!"
Unfortunately for us, our favourite lady did like talking a lot...and at a pitch and volume that could most certainly not be considered an "indoor voice." In any case, we just tuned her out and concentrated instead on the monastery tour that came after the church tour.
This monastery's construction was commissioned by King Manuel, of course, and funded by treasures from Portuguese explorations in Africa, Asia, and South America. These most likely inspired the same elements of the Manueline style as that of the church, as a tribute that befits Portugal's navigational glory and triumphs in overseas conquests.
King Manuel invited the contemplative Order of St. Jerome (also known as the Hieronymites dos Jeronimos) to occupy it at no cost. The monks, in turn, were expected to celebrate daily Masses for the souls of Prince Henry the Navigator, King Manuel I, and his successors in perpetuity. This is in addition to hearing confessions and providing spiritual counsel to seamen and navigators who sailed from Belém.
The cloisters are truly magnificent. There, the Manueline style and the maritime theme continues - coiled ropes, anchors, sea monsters, corals, shells, and tropical flora and fauna. The former refectory stood out for me, because it has beautiful reticulated vaulting and tile decoration on the walls that depict the Biblical story of Joseph from the Old Testament. One can also appreciate the beautiful gardens with manicured hedges and a central fountain from the second level wrap-around balcony. The monks were truly blessed for being granted this property!
Back at the church, I paid tribute to the great explorer Vasco da Gama, and poet Luis de Camoes, who chronicled da Gama’s voyages. Their tombs were ensconced in the lower choir of the church. I silently asked da Gama to shower me with his courageous and enterprising spirit, for I would someday like to embark on a daring voyage, not necessarily as bold and as grandiose as his has been, but as adventurous and rewarding in my own little way. Then, I invoked de Camoes to help me find the inspiration to write about my humble tales.
Photo Credits:
planetware.com, visitportugal.com, patrimoniocultural.gov.pt, darozhistoriamilitar.blogspot.com, lisbonlisboaportugal.com, golisbon.com, visitlisboa.com
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