We began our second day with an early morning Mass in French at the Upper Basilica, also known as the Basilica of the Immaculate Conception. It is the second of the churches at the Sanctuary to be completed. Built in the Gothic style, the church seems to emerge directly from the rock of Massabielle and features a 70-meter spire and two smaller spires on both sides. Above the entrance is a mosaic depicting Pope Pius IX. At the entrance on the right is a marble plaque containing the complete text of the judgement made by Monsignor Laurence, recognizing the Lourdes apparitions as authentic.
Our local guide pointed out that the altar is directly over the place of the apparitions, as the church is directly above the Grotto. A series of stained-glass windows depicting the story of Lourdes surround the church. Lined on its walls are ex-voto plaques and banners from official national pilgrimages in the past. (Ex-voto pertains to an offering to a saint or a divinity, given in fulfillment of a vow or donated in thanks of spiritual favours received.)
After the Mass, we had a tour of the main churches within the Sanctuary, beginning at the Upper Basilica. I noticed that one of our tour mates, who walked with a cane, was having some leg cramps. The Mexican lady and myself got him a wheelchair and we took turns pushing it. It was not light, especially when going up the ramps, but I didn’t mind. My tour mate was a delightful companion and eager to share so many stories. I found out he was a retired journalist and that he worked for a popular tabloid and a broadsheet in Manila during his heydays. I told him I worked in media as well, but in the television field. We had quite an interesting conversation.
Our next stop was The Crypt, the first of the churches that was completed, and is today, among the smallest. It is situated between the Upper Basilica and the Rosary Basilica. In fact, one of its notable features are the enormous pillars that support the weight of the Upper Basilica. It has a small nave and the entrance, dominated by a bronze statue of Saint Peter holding the keys to heaven, is along the corridor.
Our guide mentioned that Saint Bernadette’s father worked on its construction and was present at its official opening. The church also contains the reliquary of Saint Bernadette available for veneration. This reliquary is carried in procession from the Lourdes Parish church to the Grotto of the Apparitions every year on the 18th of February, the Feast of Saint Bernadette in France.
As my new-found friend and I were praying, a gentleman suddenly called out his name. He said he had spotted him from afar and had approached us to check if he was who he was. Apparently, they were longtime colleagues in the newspaper industry in Manila. I thought he looked familiar, so when he introduced himself, I confirmed my suspicions. He was one of Manila’s most notable entertainment columnists and an occasional TV host.
My friend introduced me to him who thought I was his daughter. He explained that we’re tour mates on a religious pilgrimage and that he was thankful that I volunteered to assist him. He also mentioned that I worked in the TV industry, but for some reason, his friend’s path and mine never crossed when I was there. This fellow and I started talking about the industry people we mutually know. But as he was also with a tour group and had to go, we bid our good-byes after I took a picture of the two old friends together. Small world indeed! (Update: This entertainment columnist and TV host passed away in 2021).
We took the ramp down to the Rosary Basilica. This church is the third of the main churches to be completed in the Sanctuary and was built in the Romano-Byzantine style. It has the shape of a Greek cross and was designed to be the pedestal of the Basilica of the Immaculate Conception, which stands above the Grotto. It has two unique elliptical ramps embracing the square. Inside, it has an open and circular nave surmounted by a dome which has a gilded crown and cross. The façade features mysteries of the Rosary in Venetian mosaic. We were told that there was a Eucharistic Adoration to be held there in the afternoon, so I made a mental note to come back.
Our Sanctuary tour ended at the square where we admired the view of the imposing Château Fort de Lourdes, a fortified castle that rises up from a rocky escarpment at its center.
Photo Credits:
structurae.net, Roland Darré (Wikipedia), José Luiz Bernardes Ribeiro (Wikimedia), en.lourdes-infotourisme.com
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