From the Lido, we boarded a small private launch to go to Venice for a little night of music after an early dinner at our hotel.
We sailed down the Grand Canal at dusk, and as the sun was setting, we passed by grand mansions with facades in richly-toned plaster work, glided along palazzos illuminated with twinkling chandeliers from the grand ballrooms inside, and went under Venice's iconic bridges. It was a most romantic ride...making us feel we were in a sepia-toned film as the fading light dramatically enveloped the quaint cityscape. It was at that moment when I thought that the title, "La Serenissima (Most Serene)," bestowed upon this beautiful city, was indeed very fitting.
By the time we docked near the Piazza San Marco, the sun had set and the skies had turned dark. Venice looked magical that night. The crowds were gone and I could clearly see the silhouette of its magnificent structures looking so dramatic in the muted lights – the Palazzo Ducale (Doge’s Palace), the Campanile di San Marco (Bell Tower of St. Mark), the Torre del’Orollogio (Clock Tower), the Scuola Grande di San Rocco, and its many churches such as the Basilica di San Marco, San Giacomo di Rialto, San Giovanni e Paolo, and San Simeone Piccolo. Only a handful of people were strolling about, while some were seated at the outdoor patios enjoying a quiet dinner or some drinks.
We had a reservation at the Gran Caffe Quadri, an opulent café right on the Piazza San Marco, situated under the Procuratie Vecchie arcades. It is known to be a perfect location to sip drinks, from espresso to cocktails, while people-watching.
The café is one of the oldest coffee houses in Venice, dating back to 1638! Imagine that? Back then, it was called, Il Remedio, due to a medicinal wine called malvasia that they carried to "invigorate the limbs and awaken the spirit." I wonder what exactly it did to the body and the mind that made it so popular in the 15th century.
In any case, back in 1775, an entrepreneur named Giorgio Quadri moved with his wife from Corfu to Venice to start a business in selling "boiling black water." They bought Il Remedio and renamed it after themselves. Coffee became the new drink of choice. Over the years, the café has changed hands, but the name remains. Today, it is known for its superb food, excellent coffee, fabulous martinis, and live music in the summer.
That night, we were supposed to have aperitives and drinks outside - a casual fare under the pale light of the moon and the glittering stars. An old-school band was already playing some of Italy’s best-loved music when we arrived. After we took our seats, we were served some munchies and offered wine and cocktails.
My husband ordered a cold glass of Italian beer, since he couldn’t have martini or any of their wines. I wanted to have a bellini, one of my favorite cocktails (the other one is Canada's national cocktail, The Bloody Caesar) and what better way to have it than from its very place of origin!
The bellini was actually invented in Venice at the world-famous Harry's Bar, located at the end of Calle Vallareso. In 1948, its owner and head bartender, Giuseppe Cipriani Senior concocted a drink made from his favourite seasonal white peaches and named it after Italian Renaissance painter, Giovanni Bellini. It was said that the bellini's colour reminded Cipriani of the golden glow of his favourite painting by the artist.
The now-iconic cocktail is a mixture of prosecco, white peach purée, and a dash of raspberry or cherry juice. But the star is really the peach...not just any peach...but the small, white variety grown near Verona and is in abundance from May to September. It was so special that Cipriani had an exclusive staff whose sole job was to squeeze and pit the fruits by hand!
Harry's Bar was actually not too far from where we were, but the location and ambiance of the Gran Caffe Quadri was definitely more festive that night. We made a mental note to one day visit Harry's Bar and try the original bellini. But this drink, having become a signature Venetian cocktail now, is available in every restaurant and bar in Venice. I even heard that the one from Harry's is over-rated and over-priced and that a number of other food establishments make excellent versions.
So, yes, of course, I wanted one. The only caveat was...I was pregnant that time and couldn't have alcohol. This was how my conversation with the server went:
Me: Could I please have a virgin bellini?
Server: Errrr (looking confused)
Me: You know...bellini with no alcohol?
Server: (smiles) Ah, you mean, you want peach juice, Madam?
Me: (laughs) And here I am, trying to make my drink sound fancier...but yes, basically a glass of juice, as you have just described.
Our server chuckled. When he left, I told my husband that we definitely have to go back to Venice so I could have the real, original bellini (I love the frozen bellini from Milestone's but it's not the same as the classic one; theirs is more like a slush and has more stuff in it - white rum, vodka, sparkling wine, sangria...and definitely not Venetian peach purée). For the time being, I consoled myself by saying that at least, I was having peach juice from the special local variety.
Despite my bellini deprivation, we had a fantastic time. The band was a riot and the audience (we comprised a third of the crowd) was in a party (but relaxed) mood.
We savoured that moment for we knew that when day break comes, the throng of tourists would arrive once more (thinking of cruise ship passengers) and Venice would once again be teeming with activity. We went back to our hotel by the beach after the little concert and slept soundly with sweet bellini dreams.
Photo Credits:
getyourguide.com, cntraveller.com, trekearth.com, cipriano.com
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