Our driver/tour guide arrived on the dot and announced that we were going to Dusternbrook Guest Farm. He explained that a guest farm is smaller than a safari lodge. It is basically an independent, often-family-run ranch that provides accommodation to travelers in areas where one doesn’t normally find large tourists or buses.
Dusternbrook is said to be the first guest farm in Namibia and is only 45-minutes from Windhoek. He said that we’d be in time for the “Cheetah and Leopard Tour” at 3:30 pm, and a game drive after that.
The farm is nestled at the foot of Khomas Highland Mountains and the surrounding African savannah. We parked in front of a colonial-style house made of natural stone. Our driver said that this location is along the old ox wagon road that formed the main supply route from the coast. He led us straight to the back lot where a safari jeep was waiting for us. There were no other tourists, so we had the jeep all to ourselves.
Our ranger introduced himself and told us that we would get to know the cheetahs and leopards that are free roaming within large enclosures in the farm, and that we would be assisting him in feeding them. The wild cats are living within their natural wild habitat, but are not entirely self-sustaining because there is not enough game for them to survive on.
However, he emphasized that it is not their policy to train them as “pets.” They run around and breed freely, but within the safety of the enclosures. He then loaded buckets of fresh, raw meat dripping with blood at the back of the vehicle, and one beside him. Sensing our trepidation, he assured us that we would remain seated in the jeep. We would be safe, but since the jeep is fairly open, we would be able to enjoy the amazing view of the savannah and take wildlife pictures up close.
We did not have to drive very far to find a coalition (yes, that’s how you call their group) of cheetahs. They swarmed around our jeep right away, anticipating their afternoon snack. Our ranger showed us how to feed them – one simply tosses the slabs of meat in the air and the cheetahs jump and grab them with their mouths. We followed his lead, and soon enough, we forgot that we were feeding cheetahs. For awhile, I thought I was just tossing treats to a pack of domestic dogs. I got some good photos because the wild kitty cats came really close to our vehicle, and for some reason, I did not get scared at all.
After the feeding frenzy, we drove around for a bit to search for the leopards. We found one relaxing on a tree branch. Our ranger drove the jeep towards the tree and stopped around eight feet away. The leopard noticed us and stared at us for a good two minutes without moving. I felt a little bit uneasy. It reminded me of my friend’s cat that likes staring at people with a seemingly knowing look as if she’s reading our minds. Only this time, the impression I got was that this wild feline was contemplating which one of us on the jeep looked the most appetizing.
As the leopard slowly moved from his perch and descended from the tree, I felt I had to double-check with our ranger. I said, “The leopard is aware that we are here to bring him the snack and that we are NOT the snacks, right?”
Our ranger chuckled and declared there’s nothing to worry about. By this time, the leopard was already on the ground and standing two feet away from us, regarding us very, very cautiously. Again, I said, “She is interested in the meat from the bucket, right? NOT us, right?”
And as our ranger answered with a resounding “yes,” he tossed a couple of meat slabs into the air and the kitty cat jumped up to catch them with his mouth. We followed suit and soon enough, he was focused on eating his meat bits. When he was satisfied, he slowly walked away and climbed up the tree to return to his resting spot. We said goodbye to him and drove off to find more leopards. However, the two we found were more interested in napping than in eating, so we left them alone.
We returned to the parking lot so our ranger could deposit the empty buckets at the back of the shed then we drove off again to do the game drive. He explained that this is usually conducted in the late afternoon when the sun is not so hot. This is also the perfect time because the animals usually come out of their shelter to look for food and water.
I enjoyed the cool wind and the mountain vista as we spotted giraffes, wildebeests, kudus, elands, steenboks, warthogs, and impalas…and all within a few feet from the vehicle. Amazing! It’s a million times better than seeing animals at the zoo. We also saw dead game and skeletons littered everywhere…remnants of the beast of preys' recent meals, a reminder that we still had to be on our toes, even within the safety of the safari vehicle.
After about two hours of wildlife spotting, we were back at the farmhouse, where a staff member welcomed us into the reception area. It was decorated with stuffed animal trophy heads all lined up on one wall and animal skulls and skeletons in glass cases, along with photos of the farm that showcases its long history.
We were treated to a refreshing sundowner cocktail and a brief tour of the main house and the surrounding cottages. The accommodations include luxury suites and various rooms tastefully decorated in the African farmhouse-style, as well as chalets and safari tents outside. We chatted for a bit and we learned that they also offer hiking tours, horseback-ride tours, bird-watching, scenic mountain drives, and superb dining. We took pictures at the front yard where giant cacti grew, before bidding the staff and our ranger goodbye. They wished us a good trip to Namibia as our shuttle driver pulled off the driveway to drive us back to our hotel.
That night, I crashed right after a light dinner. It was my first long sleep after almost two days of travel, and a game drive at its tail end!
Photo Credit:
namibia-tours-safaris.com, duesternbrook.net
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