After a few hours of driving, we finally reached Sainte-Anne-de-Beaupré, a small town along the Saint-Lawrence River and around 35 kilometers east of Quebec City. We were there to visit another national shrine, the Shrine of Sainte-Anne-de-Beaupré, dedicated to Saint Anne, our Blessed Mother’s mother and the grandmother of Jesus.
Every year, half a million pilgrims are said to come here and it has been credited by the Catholic Church with many miracles of curing the sick and the disabled. The first reported miracle was during the shrine’s construction in 1658. A man who was hired to help build it suffered from rheumatism, but after placing three stones upon the shrine’s foundation, he was cured. This was followed by other miracle healings and testimonies, and the shrine grew in popularity.
Over the years, the shrine had been enlarged to accommodate the increasing number of pilgrims, until a basilica was constructed in the late 19th century. It was destroyed by fire in 1922 and was rebuilt in 1926.
When we arrived, it was already dusk. There was no more Mass at the church, but we were blessed to be just in time for a prayer and a procession of Saint Anne’s relics. The church is in possession of three notable relics – a portion of the bone of Saint Anne’s finger, a four-inch portion of the bone of Saint Anne’s forearm (a gift from Pope Leo XIII), and another portion of her forearm bone (this time, a gift from Blessed Pope John XXIII). For those unfamiliar, a religious relic consists of the physical remains or the personal effects of a saint that is preserved for the purposes of veneration as a tangible memorial. Veneration is an act of reverence and respect for someone who has attained a high degree of sanctity or holiness, and is not to be confused with true worship, which is very distinct in Catholic and Orthodox theology.
We know very little about the life of Saint Anne, apart from her familial ties with Jesus and the Blessed Virgin Mary, but the proto-Gospel of James relates the touching story of Mary’s own childhood and the Nativity of Christ, thus devotion to Saint Anne had spread throughout the Occidental and the Oriental Christian world.
After the procession, the priest told us that the church was going to remain open for another thirty minutes. We took advantage of that quiet time to pray and explore the basilica, as we were pretty sure that the following day would bring another flock of pilgrims and tourists and that we would not have the chance to experience the shrine in this way. We booked two rooms at the shrine hostel which was just across from the church, so there was no need for us to hurry.
The entire ceiling of the basilica is covered in mosaic that tells the story of Saint Anne’s life and celebrates her virtues. Two-hundred forty stained glass windows also surround the building, creating a play of colour in the interior at that time of the night. At the heart of the apse above the main altar, one sees Saint Anne with the Virgin Mary and the Child Jesus and she is depicted as giving a fruit to her grandson, symbolizing His mission as the Redeemer of humanity. But on the other hand, one can also see this as a simple portrait of a loving grandmother caring for her grandson, which a lot of us could relate with.
There are also many fine sculptures and paintings that adorn the church, most notable of which are the stone statues of Saint Anne and the La Pieta, and the sculpted Stations of the Cross lining the walls of the church. Surrounding the sanctuary are beautifully decorated ambulatory chapels dedicated to different saints. At the back of the church, there is a pillar covered with crutches and notes from people who are said to have been miraculously cured through the intercession of Saint Anne.
We thanked the priest as he closed the church doors and we followed the path to Saint Anne’s fountain that was erected outside the basilica to welcome visitors. Lit at night, it had a soothing effect on us with water flowing over the scalloped lips of a bronze basin below a statue of Saint Anne holding her daughter, Mary.
In the background, we admired the Romanesque Revival façade of the church built in the shape of a cross with a tympanum depicting Saint Anne in her glory. At her feet, you will find a long frieze showing important moments in the faithful’s devotion. It is also decorated by statues of saints and the copper doors at the main entrance feature scenes from the life of Jesus. We lingered there for a bit to admire the serene scene. We all knew that in the morning, it was all going to look different.
We spent a quiet night enjoying a St-Hubert take out dinner at the hostel’s dining lounge. The hostel, called Auberge De La Basilique is run by The Redemptorist Fathers of Sainte-Anne-de- Beaupré. It has been providing spartan but comfortable accommodations for pilgrims for more than 50 years. We chose this place over traditional hotels because it was just a few steps away from the shrine. The amenities were basic but clean, and the staff, friendly and helpful.
The following morning, after a simple breakfast at the cafeteria, we crossed the street to the church to attend morning Mass and go for Confession. Then we took my aunt around to see the rest of the shrine. Our first stop was the Immaculate Conception Chapel located on the lower floor of the Basilica. Dedicated to the Blessed Virgin, its Romanesque architecture is highlighted by the aquamarine blue tone of the interior and decorated by paintings and mosaics that represent God’s beautiful creations.
On the same floor is the Blessed Sacrament Chapel whose décor focuses on the Eucharist – figures of the Mystical Lamb and wheat harvests in gold and turquoise. There were cameras, lights, and broadcast equipment at the back and I recognized it to be the place where the daily televised Mass is held. Across from it is the Adoration Chapel, ideal for a more intimate prayer time.
Outside, we took daytime photos at the fountain and walked to the Memorial Chapel, a souvenir of the third church that welcomed pilgrims in the 17th century. This chapel was built on the foundation of the transept of the old church using its original building materials and decorations.
Not far from it is the Scala Santa, a small-scale replica of the one in Rome. As with most Catholic places, this staircase is meant to remind us of the one that Jesus ascended to Pontius Pilate’s praetorium. This one features several Holy Land souvenirs inserted in each of the risers.
On a hill is the Way of the Cross with its fourteen stations depicting figures in cast bronze. There is something about prayer and meditation done on an uphill climb amidst the sights and sounds of nature. It is very soothing to the soul.
Our last stop was the shrine store to buy some religious articles before we headed to our favourite bakery in the area, Chez Marie.
Housed in a 17th-century stone structure and only a short drive from the shrine, it offers excellent pastries, artisanal bread, and local maple products. It’s a non-fancy, family-owned business and I just enjoy eating bread fresh out of the old-fashioned stove while sitting on a wooden bench facing a quiet country road lined with trees. We bought a country loaf, a couple of cinnamon rolls, and coffee to go and took our place at my favourite spot near the outdoor brick oven.
However, we didn’t get to enjoy this rustic picnic as the skies suddenly turned grey and the heavy showers began without warning. As we rushed into the car, I checked the weather forecast from my phone and found out that thunderstorms were pretty much expected for most of the day.
It was a bit of a let-down because we were on our way to Quebec City and I was excited to show this vibrant place to my aunt. With the storm that was pretty much following us, it wouldn’t be the best day for a touristic trip, but we resolved to make the most of our circumstances.
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