We knew we were approaching Paris as the traffic got heavier. This was typical, according to our Tour Director. We arrived at our hotel a little after lunch time and were given time to rest before our late afternoon tour and evening river cruise.
My husband and I scoured the neighborhood to look for fresh bread. And since this was France, there was a plethora of boulangeries and patisseries along our street alone. Our hotel is located in the 14th arrondissement, in the Montparnasse area, on the left bank of the River Seine. I liked that this was away from the tourist radar and that the neighbourhood appeared vibrant with an artistic edge. This was, after all, the literary hub of Paris in the roaring 20s, and the spot frequented by the likes of Ernest Hemingway, Jean-Paul Sartre, and Pablo Picasso. Its bohemian past could still be felt amongst the iconic brasseries and historic cafés, where these creative talents used to hang out.
We chose a small bakery in the corner and purchased a baguette, a couple of croissants, some cheese, and a small box of macarons. We were in bread and cheese heaven! I am not a huge macaron eater, but I enjoyed those as well. When in France, one must eat macarons.
My husband told me he wasn’t feeling too well. Uh-oh, I guess he got the virus. I, myself, was not yet 100% fine. Even though I was a lot better than the previous days, one could tell from my puffy eyes and tomato-red nose that I had been really sick. We went back to our room and after snacking, I suggested he take a nap, while I put my feet up and read a book.
A couple of hours later, after everyone was refreshed, we all boarded the bus for a tour around Paris. It was basically a drive around the city to see the “tourist essentials” – Notre Dame, Musée de Louvre, Musée d’Orsay, Musée National d'Histoire Naturelle, Musée Rodin, Jardin du Luxembourg, Pompidou Centre, Ecole Militaire, Place de Vosges, the cobbled streets of the Left Bank, La Conciergerie, the Pantheon, Palais Garnier, Grand Palais, the Trocadero, l'Odéon, Pont de l’Alma, Pont Neuf, the Sacré Coeur in Butte Montmartre, Place de la Concorde, Champs-Elysées, Arc de Triomph, and so many more.
We were dropped off along Champs-Elysées to spend some time for a photo op in front of the Arc de Triomph, then some shopping, and early dining afterwards. We got our photos taken, alright, but skipped climbing the 284 steps to get to the top. It was too hot, my husband was not feeling well, I was pregnant that time, and there were too many people. It sure was a zoo out there and we didn't want to stay too long.
But trying to get out of the Charles de Gaulle roundabout proved to be a challenge. It is said to be the craziest in the world. And how could it not be? This huge traffic circle is where one dozen boulevards converge. It's a nightmare for both vehicles and pedestrians. We later learned that in France, there is even a special car insurance package that specifies coverage for Arc de Triomph accidents and that when accidents do occur there, each driver is considered equally at fault and split the costs fifty-fifty.
I wondered if there is a special life insurance for pedestrians as well. I couldn't imagine navigating this street on foot and emerging on the other end still alive. Nevertheless, we did get out unscathed by following a bunch of brave (or stupid, depending on how you look at it) tourists as they quickly crossed the street amidst the blare of horns from angry cabbies until we found ourselves back on Champs-Elysées. (We learned later that one normally doesn't cross the street to get to or from the arc because there is an underground tunnel that you can take to get there safely. Oh well! We survived our first visit and we know what to do next time. Hahaha!)
On this portion of the most famous avenue in Paris (said to be the most beautiful in the world...and we could see why), we spent some time browsing the stores - flagship stores, department stores, and luxury boutiques, but we didn't buy anything (I am not into luxury goods and I am just happy to look at what they offer). As we walked, we admired the magnificent elms and Art Deco buildings lining the street. And because we did not have much time, we soon started looking for a place to eat.
Champs-Elysées is filled with high-end restaurants and chic cafés, but recently, has also been peppered with fast-food joints. There were plenty of choices, but we realized that we had to prioritize. While we wanted to have good Parisian fare, we did not want to miss our bus. Given the craziness of Parisian traffic and not knowing how long dinner was going to take (for the French are known to take their time during meals and to linger over coffee for some relaxing after-dinner conversation), we thought it was best to base our dining decision on the restaurant’s location. After all, since Paris is the gastronomic capital of the world, how could one go wrong? There is a good chance that we pick a random place, but still have excellent food (while still watching out for tourist traps around the area). Obviously, we couldn't go to the iconic Fouquet's and have dessert at Ladurée, but surely, there must be something close to the intersection where our bus was supposed to pick us up.
As if on cue, we heard our names being called. We spotted two of our Australian tour mates already seated outside Le Deauville, a brasserie with patio seating. They said they just placed their orders and they invited us to join them. I guess the decision was already made for us. We thought it would be lovely to have dinner with this friendly couple. Plus, the restaurant was only a few steps away from the pick-up spot and from our table, we could see the intersection. There was no way for us to miss our bus. Not a bad idea.
My husband ordered a skirt steak dish that came with homemade fries (real French fries!) and a pint of beer, while I got some escargots and a dish of penne pasta with truffle cream and crispy chicken - not very French (except for the escargots), but we thought these were the fastest to prepare. True enough, our orders came promptly and the food was fantastic, except that my pasta dish was a little salty for my liking (maybe due to my pregnancy taste buds or maybe because I had gotten used to cooking our food with very little or no salt). We finished our meal on time but had no room for dessert, so I just asked for a decaf espresso to sip while we were on the lookout for the arrival of our bus, which came shortly.
We were then driven to an area near the foot of the Eiffel Tower, where after taking the “essential” Parisian picture with the tower in the background, we boarded a boat equipped with a terrace to embark on an hour-long cruise along the River Seine.
Operated by the Bateaux-Mouches company (literally translated as "fly-boats," with the word "fly" referring to the insect), these open excursion boats enable visitors to appreciate Paris from a different perspective. From bridge to bridge and bank to bank, we were provided with useful commentary about Paris, its history, architecture, and way of life, and we got to see city's historic monuments from another angle (compared to our earlier bus tour).
Both the Left Bank (Rive Gauche) and Right Bank (Rive Droite) of the Seine were visible from the boat and we got to see the Eiffel Tower, the Trocadero, the Grand Palais, Hôtel des Invalides, the Concorde, the Orsay Museum, The Louvre, the Institut de France, Hôtel de Ville, the Notre-Dame Cathedral, Pont Neuf, Pont Alexander, and Napoleon's Burial Site. I thought this was the best way to explore the city – sitting down and gliding along the river as you enjoy the sights on a breezy evening. The only let down was my husband sneezing the whole time. He tried his best to have fun but it was clear he was feeling sick.
After the boat tour, our bus took us to the Trocadero, an expansive complex of museums, sculptures, gardens and fountains, originally built for the 1937 World's Fair. Our Tour Director said that this is the best spot to enjoy the Eiffel Tower Light Show.
Every evening, the Eiffel Tower is adorned with its golden covering and sparkles for five minutes every hour on the hour, while its beacon shines over Paris. The lighting switches on automatically as soon as it gets dark.
It was dusk when we got there, a perfect moment for the "essential romantic Parisian shot" with the iconic Eiffel Tower in the background. From this vantage point, one could capture a stunning image of the tower from top to bottom with the sunset backdrop.
Everyone, of course, got busy with posing and taking pictures. We even played photographers to a bunch of Japanese students who had creative ideas for their iconic Paris shot using some perspective tricks – kissing the tower, leaning on the tower, holding the tower between their index finger and pointy finger, putting the tower inside a heart-shaped frame that they formed with their hands, grabbing the tower from the top, and so many more. We actually enjoyed the pictorial as much as they did. However, when one of the students volunteered to take our photo, my husband thought it was too cheesy for us to pose like that so we just had a “normal” shot with both of us standing and smiling in the foreground.
The highlight of the evening was indeed watching the Eiffel Tower Light Show. Whether we admit it or not, the Eiffel Tower is the star of Paris. Every tourist picture of Paris has to have this tower in the background, or should I say, one never leaves Paris without a picture of him or her with the Eiffel Tower.
This nightly event features a spectacle, where numerous projectors illuminate the tower with bright lights, making it appear as if it’s bathed in gold. The beacon at the top sends out light beams up in the sky. Then 20,000 sparkling flash bulbs go on and they twinkle for five minutes. We stood in awe, almost forgetting to capture the moment with a snapshot or two, after which, a thunderous applause emanated from the audience. It was magical.
And as if this was not enough, we were treated to a tour of Paris at night. Again, this was an opportunity to see it from another perspective, for it is indeed a city that glitters at night. No wonder it is called “The City of Light.” I could also totally understand why so many people deem this the most romantic city. How could one not fall in love with it?
Back at the hotel, my husband went to bed right away. By that time, his nose was running badly and he looked like a mess, and he said it was because he felt like a mess. He warned me that if he’d stay that way until the next morning, he might not be able to join the activities for the next day.
Photo Credits:
tripsavvy.com, touropia.com, boulangerie-lessentiel.com, introducingparis.com, eutouring.com, Le Deauville FB page, discoverwalks.com, www.toureiffel.paris/en/the-monument, aperturetours.com, devourtours.com
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