After leaving Verona, we passed by Padua to head to another romantic Italian city – Venice. But we only got a glimpse of it at this time. We took a ferry from Tronchetto in Venice to San Nicolo on Lido Island, an 11-kilometre-long barrier island in the Venetian Lagoon, where our hotel was located. Along the way, we caught sight of bustling Venice from the Giudecca Canal side.
I thought it was a good idea to stay a bit further away from tourist-laden Venice. The Lido was only a ten-minute boat ride across the lagoon, was a lot quieter, and so wonderfully less crowded. In fact, most of the people there were locals, at least at the time of our visit.
The Lido is also the only island in the area where motorized traffic is allowed on the roads and this worked to our advantage. Our bus dropped off our luggage right at the main entrance of the hotel and we didn’t need to worry about dragging anything around. I remember seeing other tourists struggle with their heavy luggage up and down the steep stairs and in and out of the narrow streets of Venice. It didn’t look like they were having fun. I was glad we didn’t have to suffer the same ordeal.
Another bonus for being there was the proximity to the beach. The Lido is the main land barrier between Venice and the open sea. Our hotel, situated along the stretch facing the Adriatic Sea, had its own private beach. Right in our backyard were golden shores littered with smooth pebbles leading to the warm sea waters. At the same time, our hotel was a stone's throw away from places of cultural and artistic interests and we had access to the best shops, cafés, and restaurants. It was an ideal nook for relaxation after a hectic day in Venice. I think our tour company made an excellent decision to book our accommodations on this island, instead of in Venice.
Our rooms were simply furnished but comfortable, and the best feature was the balcony directly facing the Adriatic Sea. Breakfast was served in the mornings in a very trendy restaurant/lounge/bar, where we would also gather in the evenings for a nightcap.
The beach was just steps away and there were cabanas available for rent, but for the duration of our stay, we didn’t bother with them. In the afternoons, we just brought along beach towels which the hotel provided, and enjoyed the sand and the view from the open spots. There was plenty of space to spread out because there weren't very many guests and most of them were either in Venice or exploring the other islands.
My husband went for swims, while I waded in the shallow parts and strolled along the waterfront. The Adriatic waters were warm and inviting. Sometimes, I would stop to admire the little crustaceans crawling their way through the thin, golden sand or to pick up some shiny shells.
On our first evening, after an early dinner, we walked around the island and enjoyed its small-town feel. The heart of The Lido is the Gran Viale Santa Maria Elisabetta, a wide street approximately 700 metres long that leads from the lagoon and vaporetto (water bus) stop on one side across to the sea on the other. We covered part of this street on foot from our hotel on our way to the pier.
The neighborhood is a mixture of upscale homes, small shops, restaurants with outdoor bistros, luxury hotels, and low-rise 1920s-style buildings. The Lido is actually famous for its Italian Art Noveau architecture characterized by floral, nautical, or Venetian-inspired embellishments that take on its own giddy appeal. Among the most imposing buildings are the island's grandest hotels - the Grande Albergo Ausonia & Hungaria, the Grand Hotel Excelsior, and the Grand Hotel des Bains, setting of Thomas Mann’s classic novel, Death in Venice, along with Luchino Visconti's 1971 film adaptation. Scenes from the movies, The English Patient and Casino Royale were shot around this area as well.
The Lido is no stranger to films, for it hosts the famous Venice International Film Festival held annually towards the end of August or the beginning of September at the Palazzo del Cinema . It is during this time that the island is flocked with tourists and of course, people from the film industry. The movie stars usually stay at the Grand Hotel des Bains and the Grand Hotel Excelsior. I could imagine the frenzy at that time of the year. But for the time being, we enjoyed the tranquility that it offered and admired the landmarks without the celebrities and the papparazzi.
Photo Credits:
globeguide.ca, in-italia.com, theculturetrip.com, lifeinitaly.com, petitpalaisvenice.com
Comments