As we drove along a railway line on the B4 national road, we realized how vast and underpopulated Namibia is. On the dust roads through the arid landscape, all we could see were spectacular views of the desert, rocky outcrops, sand dunes, and a LOT of open space.
We would drive for miles and miles and not come across a single village or even a tiny settlement. The only other signs of life were the occasional wildlife. We were reminded that in Namibia, wild animals are not restricted within the National Parks. They are everywhere!
Cheetahs and leopards hunt on private farms. Oryx and baboons run along gravel tracks. Giraffe munch on trees by the side of the road. Or, they could potentially share the road with your vehicle, as we had experienced with the ostriches. We ran across several of them at different points on the road, and some of them even engaged our van in a race with them, which we found quite amusing. And yes, I confirm that ostriches can run fast!
During our drive, we saw more animals than people, and more wilderness than communities. Our guide told us that the population density in the country is three per square kilometer and that the largest clustering is found in the extreme north-central area along the borders with Angola. For someone coming from Asia, where most areas are densely populated, and most highways are busy with vehicles, being on the road for hours without any sign of civilization took some getting used to. It was easy to imagine that we were characters in some apocalyptic movie in which we played the part of the only humans left on this planet.
I recalled seeing a souvenir magnet at one of our stops - it was a comical illustration of a couple of tourists driving in the vast, empty desert,. Underneath was a caption that said, “Trust me, there are people in Namibia.” I did not get the joke that time, but while in the middle of nowhere in the boundless expanse of land, I finally understood.
Surprisingly, our isolation did not alarm me. On the contrary, I enjoyed the stillness of Mother Nature and the serenity of our drive. Plus, with a seasoned guide, I felt safe.
We were on our way to Aus, a small settlement that our guide described as "something like the Wild, Wild West of America." It is a little desert town nestled in the Karas region, perched on the Aus Mountains above the plains of the Namib Desert. But he also mentioned a couple of nearby towns that are linked with some interesting history – Kolmanskop and Luderitz.
Kolmanskop is known as the “ghost town of the Namib Desert.” Once a railway station, it became one of the richest towns in Africa due to the discovery of diamonds. During the diamond boom in the early 1900s, hordes of treasure seekers settled in the area and a rapid town development that included the construction of luxurious stone houses, a school, a hospital, a casino, a theatre, an ice factory, a ballroom, a sports hall, and even a salt-water swimming pool, took place. But in 1908, when no more claims were granted, the area was declared a “Restricted Diamond Area" and in 1928, when the deposits were depleted and more profitable prospecting sites were discovered elsewhere, the town was abandoned and left to its own devices.
Nowadays, one can see how the desert is slowly claiming this lost territory back. There are guided tours that take visitors around the ghost town to see sand-filled old homes and buildings. Unfortunately, this was not part of our tour, so we just took a photo of an old sign that said entering the prohibited diamond area without permit has a penalty (either a hefty fine or a one-year imprisonment).
The other town, Luderitz, is a harbour town known for its German colonial buildings and brightly-coloured Art Deco-style architecture. And because it is sandwiched between the barren Namib Desert and the windswept Atlantic coast, it makes for a scenic drive. Imagine a colonial relic hardly-touched by the 21st century combined with a rocky coastline that harbours flamingo flocks and penguin colonies! It will make you feel stuck in a time warp. Unfortunately, this was not also part of the tour itinerary, but our guide promised that we would be treated to the same colonial ambiance when we reach Swakopmund, the more well-heeled version of an old-time German town.
Aus, on the other hand, was set up as a prisoner-of-war camp for German soldiers captured by the South African troops during the First World War. The inmates were initially housed in tents, but later on, brick houses were built. When the inmates left and campsite closed, the houses were torn down. A plaque marks the site today and some of the houses have been reconstructed.
Our home in Aus was the Desert Horse Inn. This owner-run inn stands on the Klein-Aus Vista Reserve about 1,400 meters above sea level in a totally unspoilt semi-desert area. This is the area where the Namib Desert begins to merge with golden grasses, where horses roam free, and where people once gathered with diamond dreams.
As we entered the driveway, the two-storey main building built entirely of wood surrounded by a cluster of late century-style farmhouses reminded me of a Western movie set. The structures were painted in deep, rich sienna that glow from afar like sunshine, while the red brick accents are reminiscent of the sands of Kalahari. That's when I understood what our guide said earlier about the town's "Wild West" vibe.
We first checked in at the reception area, where I admired the African-themed décor as our guide made the arrangements. I looked at the ostrich eggs and feathers, carved tree trunks, animal skin rugs, and paintings of desert scenes around the room. It was like a mini-museum. The main building also houses the lounge and the curio shop on the lower floor.
When we got our keys, we were escorted to quarters which was half of an individual farmhouse. Each semi-detached unit has its own private entrance and veranda with a wooden table and wooden chairs. Inside, there is a small lounge area in the corner. The wooden bedroom furniture set is simple but comfortable and the interior paint mimics the sunset tones of the façade. The ensuite bathroom is spacious and we just loved the stone floor tiles in the shower.
As soon as we got unpacked, we explored the outdoors. Right outside our house was a red brick well but with no water. My husband, of course, spotted the granite gneiss hills in our “backyard” and was in no time climbing to the very top, hammer and chisel on hand, to get rock samples. I checked the other side of the yard and discovered orange and lemon trees laden with fruits and a fenced enclosure where a family of ostriches were enjoying their afternoon snack. There was also a horseshoe-shaped pool, but we were not in the mood for a swim.
We had about a couple of hours to relax before our sundowner drive to see wild horses, so I called in my husband and suggested we take a cat nap.
Photo Credits:
namibia-accommodation.com, Ticket to Africa, info-namibia.com, Joana Kruse (FineArtAmerica), afktravel.com, store.gondwana-collection.com, discoverafrica.com, audleytravel.com, insearchofchocolate.com, greatroadjourneys.com, gondwanacollection.com,
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