We drove east towards Sesriem. We were to stay at Hammerstein Lodge. Situated between Luderitz and Swakopmund, and nestled between the Nubib and Tsaris mountains, this place was the perfect base for exploring the Sossusvlei region.
The property was about a kilometer off the dirt road and the entrance is marked by a huge tree limb with a copper statue of a wild cat. Within the compound are bungalows equipped with full kitchens, bed and breakfast lodgings, and a campsite. There was a separate building for the buffet restaurant-bar, a pool, a garden terrace, and a playground. A few kilometres from the lodge are rocky outcrops of massive granite boulders. One of these boulders, an enormous rock shaped like a hammer, gave this property its name.
We got settled in our bungalow. Our room was simple, with wooden furnishings and African-themed beddings. The bathroom was lined with burnt-sienna tiles accented by images of savannah animals.
We showered and rested for a bit before we met our guide and fellow travellers at the lobby for a “Wild Cat Walk.” This is one of the resort's key attractions, where guests can experience amazing encounters with a tame leopard, some playful cheetahs, a couple of elusive caracal cats, and a naughty zebra.
We were introduced to our local guide outside the main building and from there, we walked about 20 meters to a large enclosure, where we saw a medium-sized leopard perched on a log post. We were told that her name is Lisa.
Our guide explained that Lisa was adopted by the lodge owner’s son, Matthew when she was still a cub and was treated as a pet. In fact, she used to sleep in Matthew’s bedroom for about ten years until she grew too big. Now, she stays in this enclosure, and no one, except for the caretakers are allowed inside. Although Lisa could be friendly enough for people to pet her, when she's not in the mood, she could be quite snarky and unpredictable.
Lisa stayed really close to the fence, close enough for us to see the details of her face and body. Her eyes were of two different colours – one dark brown, and the other one, greenish. We were told that this is due to cataract. Poor kitty! Her black-dotted orange fur was nice and shiny...and very luxurious-looking. It's not a surprise that furs like hers are much sought-after for carpets and rugs.
Our guide said that leopard pelts are expensive and poachers could sell them from anywhere between $10,000 and $20,000. Although we were tempted, we did not dare pet her. We were warned that she sometimes grabs people with her paws when she’s annoyed. And we were pretty sure she had seen enough tourists for the day and would not be amenable to playtime. The only thing she was in the mood for was her snack of zebra meat, which we brought. We helped feed her and left her alone to eat the rest of her snacks in peace.
Next, we went to another pen, and this time, we were allowed inside. We were told that there were caracal cats somewhere, but since they are very good at hiding, we had to find them. My husband spotted one under the camelthorn bush, and not far away, we saw her mate.
The pair are named Romeo and Juliet. They are like house cats but very large and they have long, pointy ears, like those of a lynx. The long tufts of hair at the end of their ears help them gauge the wind so they can jump and catch birds flying by. Apparently, they can jump up to two meters high to capture their prey. These wild cats are elusive and nocturnal, and the only reason they were there was because they are rescued cats. Our guide said that even he, who has lived there all his life, had never seen a caracal in the wild and up-close until he worked at the resort. We felt so privileged. We were able to get close to them but they were more interested in napping, so after a few shots, we left them to snooze.
At the next enclosure, we were also allowed inside. I checked what animals were kept there and our guide said that there were a couple of cheetahs eager to meet us – Oscar and Wilde. Before we could protest, our guide assured us that they are very friendly. They, too, are rescued cats and are very used to relating with humans. In fact, they used to roam around freely within the compound, until they discovered how tasty the farm’s sheep were and started snatching them up.
When we entered the gate, the two wild cats ran to greet us. We stroked their fur, hesitantly at first, but as they relaxed and sat down, we sat down with them as well. We stayed like that for minutes, sitting together, enjoying the breeze and the remnants of the day’s sun, as we petted them as if they were domesticated house cats.
Our guide pointed out the difference between leopards and cheetahs. He said that one obvious difference is the marking on the cheetah’s face. The cheetah has two dark lines running from the inner corner of its eyes down to the chin, like a visible tear trail. Also, the markings on their bodies are different – the cheetah has spots on its fur, while the leopard has rosettes. By then, we have seen both species closely, and we could tell the difference.
Their body construction is distinct from each other as well. Cheetahs are generally taller, slenderer, and more streamlined, and this enables them to run fast. Leopards are heavier and more muscular. As well, since cheetahs are always chasing preys, their claws are unretractable. Leopards’ claws are used only when hunting, tree-climbing, or fighting with other territorial predators, that’s why they are retractable. But he reiterated that there was no reason to fear their in-house kitty cats. We believed him and continued to stroke Oscar and Wilde's fur until they dozed off.
We said goodbye to them afterwards and proceeded to another pen. This time, we didn’t go in. The small enclosure had one occupant – Hans, the infamous zebra, and outside was a wooden sign in both English and German that said, “Beware of the Zebra. He bites!” Our guide added that this naughty animal has also mastered the art of stealing stuff from campers who make the mistake of hanging their clothes and backpacks on or near the fence. I took heed of the warning and just stood at a distance to pose for a picture with him.
As our “Wild Cat Walk” ended, my husband and I walked around the property for a bit, checked out the campsite, and picked-up rocks.
That night, all guests and campers gathered at the main building dining hall where we were treated to a braai feast. This is the Afrikaans word for “barbecue” or “roast.” It also refers to a social custom in Africa where family and friends gather to eat and celebrate anything under the sun (or moon). No special reason or occasion is needed. Any happy event is a reason for celebration, such as welcoming a group of trekkers, adventurers, and travelers from all over the world.
But unlike the North American notion of barbecue, the African braai strictly entails fire and open flame cooking, mostly fueled by wood or charcoal, not an electric or gas grill. Meats are the star of the braai and can range from marinated chicken, steaks, sausages, spare ribs, pork, and lamb chops to the more exotic game meats. In the coastal regions, they also braai fish and crayfish. As per tradition, men do the braaing, while women prepare the pap, which is another component of this tradition. The pap is a staple dish in African communities that is similar to porridge and maybe accompanied by a tomato and onion sauce. Tradition also dictates that even after the cooking is done, the fire is kept alive and the party goes on.
I tried a variety of game meat that night and after a hearty meal, there was music and dancing. The staff sang and played instruments for us, and then we joined in the communal dancing, African-style.
I must say that one can feel the spirit of Africa from the stirring drumbeats, soulful chanting, powerful singing, and the evocative movements of the musicians and dancers. It was a most-fitting conclusion to a fun-filled day in the desert.
Photo Credits:
wheretostay-namibia.com, sossusvlei.org, freeart.com
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