We reached Swakopmund at dinner time. There was still a little bit of light, so our guide drove us around town before dropping us off at our hotel.
I immediately felt the change in vibe once we set foot in Swakopmund. First, it is a lot busier than Namibia’s capital, Windhoek. Second, since it is situated by the coast, you could see beaches and the Atlantic Ocean, compared to landlocked Windhoek. Third, the climate is much milder. And fourth, it transports you to a totally different continent. You’d start wondering if you had left Africa.
Swakopmund is Namibia’s largest coastal town and is known as the country’s prime activity centre. It is the place to go and the place where the action is. Its name comes from the German phrase that means, “mouth of the Swakop,” the river that runs through this town. It is also a popular beach resort for vacationers who want to spend their vacation here, and a great traveler way station along the African road for adventurers who make this town a launch pad for an exploration of the Skeleton Coast or the Namib Desert.
But the best thing about it are the beautiful, old German colonial buildings throughout the city, a nod to its Teutonic days. With its colourful half-timbered architecture, seaside promenades, quaint little shops, small businesses that still carry German names, and of course, bakeries teeming with German pastries, it felt like we were on a holiday town along Germany’s North Sea and Baltic Coast, rather than the Atlantic coast of southern Africa.
In fact, during colonial times, Swakopmund was referred to as “Germany’s most southern coastal resort,” apart from serving as a harbour and a port for the Imperial German colony. A small part of its population is still German-speaking today and most of the tourists that we saw walking around were Germans. But it is also very much African. There were numerous shops selling handicrafts made by the local Herero, Nama, Dama, and the Himba peoples, and the air was filled with the African vibe that is hard to describe but easily felt. One can say that coming here gives you a slice of Germany in Africa. It is a vibrant African town with a robust German flair.
As mentioned in my Namibian introduction story, Swakopmund was home to Hollywood glamour ex-couple Brad Pitt and Angelina Jolie for a few months, where they enjoyed some privacy leading to the birth of their daughter, Shiloh. That time, the city attracted tourists and paparazzi alike. This city was also the filming location for the 2008 AMC television series, The Prisoner starring Jim Caviezel and Sir Ian McKellen. It was portrayed as "The Village" in the show.
Our growing fascination continued as we arrived at our hotel. Hansa Hotel, a more-than-a-century-old hotel, is a charming structure steeped in history and tradition. Built in 1905, it still runs in practically the same manner that it has been administered more than a century ago, only with a wing added to the original building in 1950. It is part of Swakopmund’s architectural heritage and prides itself with its timelessly classical design and service that is a throwback to an era of sophisticated hospitality that you hardly experience anymore. Staying there was like taking part in the city's living history.
The bell boys were dressed in forest green livery with the iconic round hats and they gave us room keys that were actually old-fashioned keys, not cards that you swipe. The sweeping gilded staircase dominating the reception area reminded me of hotel scenes from black-and-white movies. The dark-wood furniture and early-century décor gave me some Somewhere in Time vibes. The interior is characterized by thick carpets, crystal chandeliers, marble posts, Victorian lamps, and ornate metals. Even the gardens and the courtyard, with fountains, birdbaths, and flowering blossoms screamed vintage.
We freshened up and stretched our limbs by taking a walk around the neighbourhood and familiarizing ourselves with the streets. There were restaurants and cafés, specialty and souvenir shops, grocery stores, hostels, antique shops, tour operator offices, and other business establishments that were mostly still open, but it was almost dinner time and our companions would be joining us at the hotel's restaurant. We vowed to go back the following day and explore some more.
Dinner that night was formal. There was a dress code at the main dining hall and the waiters all wore penguin tuxedos. The food was amazing and service was impeccable. We feasted on seafood and game meat, which are their specialties, and I indulged in a glass of excellent local wine.
The following day, we had an early breakfast at the terrace. It was our last meal with our German travel mates, for that night, after spending a full day in Swakopmund, they would be driving with our guide back to Windhoek with one more stopover at a game farm. Our guide joined us for coffee then helped us load our luggage into the van. He offered to drop us off at our next hotel.
My husband and I decided to stay an extra night in Swakopmund. He had done some research on the Rössing Uranium Mine located not far from the city centre and found out that they offered public tours. We booked one that would depart at 10:30 am that day, but we wanted to check out of Hansa and leave our luggage at the other hotel.
The change in accommodations was actually a mistake on the part of our tour arranger. We had asked for an extra night at the same hotel, but she thought we were staying at the other one that they also use for this tour, and booked us there instead. It was a small hassle that we could live with.
At the driveway of our next hotel, we thanked our guide and bid good-bye to our small party. We wished them a safe travel and a good time for the rest of their stay in Namibia. They shared with us that after that tour, they'd be joining another one that would take them to the northern part of the country – to Etosha National Park and the Caprivi Strip. We jokingly told them we were envious because we would not have the time to explore that part of Namibia, thus, we would have to return at another time.
Our next hotel, Hotel Europahof, is only a few blocks from Hansa Hotel and is ideally located within walking distance to the beach and the main tourist attractions in the town centre.
My husband declared he liked this hotel right away at first glance, and I could see why. The façade’s architecture is Bavarian-inspired – its heavy timber frame in brown, and the plaster filling white. Inside, the public areas, as well as the rooms, were a bit dated, but I guess, that goes with the "Old World" look. The only indication that we were in Africa were the wildlife chalk drawings on the walls along the corridors, and the palm trees, cacti, and bougainvillea shrubs growing in the courtyard that you could see from the windows. Their restaurant offered a blend of German fare and local seafood.
After checking in and depositing our luggage in our assigned room, we went out to explore the neighbourhood. We had more than two hours to spare that morning before our departure for the mine tour.
Photo Credits:
travelnewsnamibia.com, namibia-accommodation.com, rhinoafrica.com, hotels.com, hotelscombined.com.au
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