We reached Tofino a little after lunch. Our bed-and-breakfast house was a cozy Cape Cod-style house close to the beach. The owners did not normally stay there, and we were the only guests, so we had the entire house to ourselves. My housemate and her friend shared one big bedroom with two double-beds and I had the smaller bedroom with a double-bed. As soon as we unpacked and got settled, we ate cold-cut sandwiches for lunch then wasted no time. The beaches were waiting.
We first checked out Chesterman Beach, the most popular in Tofino, and the closest to our B&B place. This “M-shaped” stretch of land is frequented by locals and tourists alike to do activities varying from surfing to beach volleyball, skim boarding to kite flying, or just to walk their dogs or take a stroll with family and friends. Its north end features rocky islands and the iconic lighthouse. The south end boasts of tide pools and sea caves accessible at low tide. It was low tide when we got there and we found sea stars and anemones on the beach. We also saw signs advertising surf schools, though there were no surfers in sight at that time of the year. My housemate took pictures, while her friend and I walked barefoot on the beach and examined up-close the exposed marine creatures crawling along the sand. Then we hurried off to see the next beach.
MacKenzie Beach has sandy shores sheltered from storms and high winds by large tidal rocks and outcroppings that surround it. Its waters are relatively calmer than those of the other beaches on the island and has the gentlest of waves. This is the best place to go kayaking, swimming with smaller children, or camping. However, at the time of our visit, the place was almost empty, save for a flock of seagulls. My housemate said this would be the ideal place for storm-watching.
It was almost time for sunset, so we decided to go to one more beach and stay there to watch the dusk spectacle. Cox Bay Beach is home to three resorts, which is not surprising, since it is the site of most Tofino surf competitions. We found out that the parking lot is reserved for lodge patrons, and since we were trying to catch the sunset and the public access parking was on the other side, we parked illegally and climbed over the parking lot fence to get to the beach. I would like to mention that we are normally law-abiding citizens, but my housemate decided that on account of the rapidly changing-hues of the beautiful pre-sunset skies and the short time frame available to capture this magnificence, we had a valid excuse to be a little bit naughty. “For the love of nature,” she said.
We were just in time for the skylight show, and my housemate was happy with her pictures. After the sun came down, we walked along the beach for a few minutes and marvelled at the waves. Due to its crescent shape and west-facing direction, this beach amplifies most swells and makes it the most consistent beach break in the area. We could understand why it has become the most popular surfing spot in Tofino. But it also offers other captivating features – the giant drift logs and driftwood shelters built by beach-lovers, and the sand dollars that dot its white sands. The sand dollars, which are actually flat, burrowing sea urchins, are lovely to look at. And while it was tempting to pick them up and maybe bring one home as souvenir, it is best to leave them be in their natural habitat.
We returned to the B&B for dinner. We warmed up some rice and barbecued chicken that my housemate’s mom made for us. My housemate’s friend also discovered a bottle of red wine beside a crystal domed cake stand at the kitchen counter with a note from the B&B owners that said, “Welcome to our kitchen. Please help yourselves.” And indeed, we did. There were Nanaimo bars and brownies for dessert and the wine was just what we needed to chill after a long day of travel. There was also a tray of cookies and muffins. We decided to turn in early as we were all exhausted. My housemate reminded us of the wonderful breakfast awaiting us the following day.
The next day, we got up early and after a refreshing hot shower, we headed to Wickaninnish Beach. This beach is part of the aptly-named Long Beach area situated within the Pacific Rim National Park Reserve and also includes the Florencia Bay, Combers Bay, and Schooner Cove beaches. Stretching over 16 kilometers, it is the longest beach on Vancouver Island.
We went straight to Wickaninnish Inn. Built on a rocky headland, this building has an expansive view of the coastline and the sea. Inside, it provided a cozy West-Coast vibe with furnishings, art work, and sculptures from local creators displayed on its walls and corners. It would have been nice to stay here, but accommodation prices were beyond what we were willing to spend (because we were planning to be out for most of the day, it didn’t make sense for us to splurge on accommodations when what we just needed was a comfortable bed to sleep in at night and a home-style kitchen), so the next best thing was to dine at their prestigious The Pointe Restaurant.
The restaurant is not only known for excellent food made from fresh seasonal harvests and ingredients from local sources, but also for its relaxing ambiance and scenic view. As soon as we walked in, I realized that my housemate, who raved about this place, was not exaggerating. The magnificent vista of the sea rolling onto the shore and the sunrise in the horizon seen from its floor to ceiling panoramic glass windows left us breathless. We were seated at a table beside the window, but really, no matter which table you take, you won’t be short of view. The restaurant was constructed to mimic the glass prow of the owner’s old family cabin and the 240-degree windows serves as a huge screen for Pacific storm-watching. I can imagine why people dub it as the most magical spot to witness the West Coast’s most fearsome beauty.
Our server handed us the menu and chatted with us for a bit. We told him we were hoping to get a glimpse of a Pacific storm. He surmised that based on the current weather, it was highly unlikely to happen in the next few days, but things could change, you’d never know, he cheerfully declared. He said that it is truly spectacular to watch from there. Sometimes, the waves could roll up to six metres high. The little cat paw waves far out in the Pacific could grow exponentially once they reach the shores due to the high winds that chase them. My housemate joked that she would fervently pray to the goddess of the Pacific Sea, if ever there’s one, to grant her wish.
We all ordered Eggs Benedict plates – smoked salmon and cream cheese for me, goat cheese and spinach for my housemate, and shaved ham and cheddar for her friend – served on homemade English muffin with hollandaise sauce and rosti potato wedges. Oh, they were divine! We finished our breakfast in no time but lingered on to have our coffee refills while savouring the scenery. My housemate was right – the food and the view were well-worth the price! We thanked our friendly server and told him we’d be back the following day.
We explored the property and the beach for a bit. I must say, that was my favourite beach so far, and I remarked how much of a visionary the owner of this place must be for choosing this spot to build his resort. Because it lays on the southern end of Long Beach, right on the edge of golden sand dunes along the path of the ocean’s powerful waves, this beach collects hundreds of weather-bleached driftwood and array of flotsam and jetsam that gives it an authentic rugged West Coast feel.
We climbed up the ramp to the observation deck of the Visitor Centre, past the totem pole where we admired the dramatic horizon, the massive sand dunes, the large rock formations, and the pebbles rolling in the foamy waves. From that vantage point, we could also see the cedar spa cottage nestled into the ocean level of the inn’s building and sheltered by some forest fringe. The smell of the sea and the misty ocean spray added to the freshness of that morning. We didn’t want to leave, but there were other areas to explore.
Photo Credits:
My friend and former housemate - Jenny, westcoastnet.org, Long Beach Maps, discovervancouverisland.com (Sam Vandervalk), tourismtofino.com, wickinn.com, thepointerestaurant.ca
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