We were up extra early that day to drive to Sossusvlei. We were aiming to reach the place and enter the gates before sunrise. After the African braai party the previous night, we did not mind the shorter sleep, for this was one of the highlights of our trip, in our opinion.
Situated in the Namib-Naufkluft National Park, the largest conservation area in Africa, Sossusvlei is probably the most spectacular and the best-known attraction in the continent. It is a salt and clay pan surrounded by high, red dunes. The dunes in this area are some of the highest in the world, reaching almost 400 meters, and provide photographic enthusiasts with wonderful images in the beautiful morning and evening light.
The name sossusvlei is of mixed origin and roughly means "dead-end marsh." Vlei is the Afrikaans word for "marsh," while sossus is the Nama word for "no return" or "dead end.” It is the place where the dunes come together preventing the Tsauchab River to flow any further, some 60 kilometers east of the Atlantic Ocean. However, due to the dry conditions in the Namib Desert, the river seldom flows this far and the pan remains bone-dry most years. We couldn’t wait to explore!
We arrived at the park gates at 6:30 in the morning. The gates open at 7:00, but there were already other vehicles waiting with us. The wait was a wonderful one, though, because we all watched the sunrise. We marveled at the play of lights as the dark horizon gave in to tinges of crimson, then dark orange, then bright yellow. As the sun ascended high up in the sky, the sand dunes in the background slowly emerged in hues of light pink and muted brown. It didn’t take long before we were allowed in. We were welcomed by a flock of ostriches meandering on the grassy plateau underneath the dunes. What a beautiful morning indeed.
We drove along the semi-paved road in convoy with the other early visitors. After a few minutes, we passed by a natural flat peninsula that juts into the Namib Desert from Sesriem to Sossusvlei and gradually gets narrower and narrower the further you go as the sand dunes on either side start to close in. They are called “star dunes” because from above, they appear star-shaped. They are formed like this because the winds blow at the sands from all directions, thus creating stationary dunes as opposed to the classic "barkhan dunes" that are crescent-shaped and actually move over time.
About two-thirds of the way to the end of the road, we stopped at Dune 45, which got its name from the number of minutes it takes to get there from the gate. We were given the chance to climb it, and of course, we took the opportunity.
Standing at 170 metres, it looked easy to tackle, but trust me, it wasn’t so. I wasn’t wearing proper footwear, so I struggled to reach halfway up. Our German travel mates, who were wearing runners, stopped from time to time to shake off sand that got into their shoes. I had on a pair of soft Mary Janes (what was I thinking?), so you could imagine how often I had to unload mine.
I took a picture when I was three-quarters up, then climbed down. My husband made it all the way to the top and he said that the view from up there was well-worth the climb. But even from below, Dune 45 is the most photographed dune in Sossusvlei because of its fascinating shape, its accessibility, and the interesting colours it projects. During sunrise and sunset, it creates shadows on its side, creating extreme contrasts that photographers love.
We all got back into the van and drove to the end of the paved road where we boarded a special 4x4 vehicle that would be better able to navigate the treacherous sand. Our guide said that we would be driving to Big Daddy, which, at 325 metres, must be considered one of the highest sand dunes in the world.
As we approached, we realized that it surely dwarfs Dune 45. It takes at least an hour and half to get to the top of Big Daddy and there is a ridge about two-thirds of the way. We took the challenge, even the senior couple with us, and soon enough, we were all trekking gradually upwards, stopping from time to time for a drink of water or just to catch our breaths. When we reached the first crest, the seniors and I decided we had enough. We just stayed there to take pictures and enjoy the view. My husband and our guide continued on to the second crest and then up again to the top.
Going down was a lot easier, even though the side of the dune was steep. Every step created a mini-landslide, so it took less effort from us than when we were going up. In retrospect, I should have just sat down and asked someone to push me down. That would have been a lot easier and a lot more effortless, not to mention, a lot of fun. Once we reached the bottom, we pretty much knew the drill of taking of our shoes, shaking out the tons of sand we accumulated in there, and wiping off the insides.
At the bottom of Big Daddy is the equally-famous Dead Vlei, another vlei known for its 900-year old fossilized acacia trees that dot the expansive clay pan. This used to be an oasis with trees flourishing with life. Now, they are dead, frozen in time forever, and have not decomposed because of the area’s dry climate.
Characterized by pitch-black, dead trees that stood out against the bleached-white pan floor and the rusty-red dunes and dark-blue sky in the background, this landscape is another favourite among photographers because the contrast in vivid colours make for incredible images. For us though, it presented an out-of-this-world landscape. It was easy for us to imagine that we just landed on Mars and were exploring its long-dead flora. That’s one way of looking at it. From a creative eye, on the other hand, one could easily see a Van Gogh painting that came to life.
On the way back, we also checked out Hidden Vlei, where lone trees are scattered across the barren landscape. This is the least visited landmark in this area, perhaps because of the desolation. The only other visible sights are animal tracks, both from the medium-sized antelopes such as springboks and gemsboks, to the smaller animals that generally live under the sand, such as bugs and geckos. Upon hearing that we might see some desert lizards here, I quickly walked away. (FYI - I do not like lizards. In fact, I have a phobia as far as any form of reptile is concerned.)
All around the area were petrified dunes. These are sand dunes that have solidified to rocks. Some of them have interesting markings, and of course, my husband had to take a few samples.
There were other dunes to explore. There was Dune 7, the highest sand dune in the world at 385-meters tall and was named as such because it’s the seventh dune one encounters after crossing the Tsauchab River. There was Elim Dune, a high and isolated dune that is partially covered in vegetation, making it distinct from the other dunes in the area. There is Big Mama, another high dune that stands opposite Big Daddy.
But honestly, we could only walk and climb so much. Our travel companions were in their senior years, and I was not in the best of shape. My husband, who likes hiking and is relatively fit, was highly outnumbered.
On our drive back to the gate, I thought of the time when Jesus Christ stayed for 40 days alone in the desert to spend some time in contemplation. I could not imagine a better place than this. It’s desolate, yet beautiful in the most surreal way. The immense emptiness of this vast and arid wilderness would propel anyone to meditate and look into one’s self and understand the mysteries of our own life and that of the universe.
When we exited the gate, it was as if we left the threshold of another world and were suddenly catapulted back into reality.
Photo Credits:
commons.wikimedia.com (Moongateclimber), rhinoafrica.com
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