The next morning, as arranged, we waited for our official tour guide at the lobby after breakfast and check-out at around 9:30. He arrived in his van, introduced himself, and helped us load our luggage. He’s an Austrian guy who has been living in Windhoek for the past ten years and works full time as a tour guide.
He told us that this was going to be a very small group. Apart from us, there was only one other couple – two Germans vacationing from Hanover. He spoke English, German, and Afrikaans, but the tour, he said, would be conducted in English, even though I was the only non-German speaking person in the group (my husband speaks French and German).
We met our fellow travellers aboard the van. They’re a husband-and-wife team who had recently retired from the workforce and who travel internationally every summer. They told us they were in Portugal the previous year and that like us, it was their first time on African soil. My husband was happy to practice his German with them from time to time, but we conversed in English for the most part.
We drove to the Kalahari Desert via Rehoboth, a historic town south of Namibia known for its dense acacia woodlands and natural hot springs. We didn’t stop there, except for lunch and two comfort breaks. Our destination was the Auob Country Lodge, our home in the midst of the iconic red sand dunes and dry river beds of the Kalahari Desert, where a sunset drive in an open safari vehicle awaited us.
The lodge is situated along the banks of the Auob River. Its bright yellow and red façade stood out from the desert landscape and its manicured lawn lined with palm trees welcomed us after our four-hour drive. Starting out as a commercial sheep farm in the olden days, the establishment is now part of an 8,000-hectare reserve that is home to various indigenous and exotic wildlife species.
The main building retained its original character and charm, but was modernized and decorated with transitional furniture and rattan accents. It was converted to accommodate a reception and lounge area, bar, traditional kitchen, and restaurant.
Upon arrival, we were treated to some welcome drinks before being escorted to our rooms, which were built around the farmhouse surrounding a central pool. Our room was lovely with rustic furnishings and a beautifully-tiled ensuite bathroom, and although there were white mosquito nets surrounding our bed, we were assured that the Kalahari is typically malaria-free and that there are hardly any mosquitoes at that time of the year.
After a brief rest, we were summoned to go outside to commence our safari ride. We noticed that the lodge also had camp sites and camping facilities beyond the traditional rooms. Next to the campsite, there was a small breeding camp for springboks, lechwes, and Nyala antelopes that were open for viewing for both lodge guests and campers.
We boarded our safari jeep and met the other guests. Our three-hour sundowner game drive allowed us to see plenty of freely roaming animals of the Kalahari - giraffes, wildebeests, all kinds of antelopes, hippos, rhinos, and ostriches.
We also saw giant nests dangling from trees, with most of them almost the size of the tree’s crown, that they appeared sagging. Our ranger told us that these are special nests built by social weaver birds, which are small, bright yellow birds that got their name from their handiwork.
During the mating season, the male birds construct intricate basket-like nests to attract prospective mates, as if to say, “Look ladies, I have a nice mansion. How would you like to marry me and live here?” Sometimes, after the male has completed the basic structure of the nest and the female has approved it, she will help him complete their abode. We laughed and remarked at how similar they are to humans, in more ways than one. The females in the group emphasized the fact that our approval is the most important thing in the relationship. One of the men said, "I know! Females are bossy," which elicited more laughter.
We drove up close to see the nests in greater detail. Our ranger explained that the male bird starts by creating a knot with a long blade of grass and then building a circular structure by weaving blades around this knot with the use of his beak and feet. Then, he weaves grass around the initial ring to build a ball-like nest. Wow! These birds are so sophisticated and I must say, these nests are prime real estate property.
What made this safari game drive truly beautiful aside from the wildlife sightings, was the view of the expansive horizon with the setting sun against the rich, red sand dunes of the desert. The Kalahari is a semi-arid sandy savannah that extends 900,000 square kilometres covering much of Botswana, parts of Namibia (where we were), and regions of South Africa.
Our ranger said that it is actually not a desert in the strictest sense of the word because it receives a lot of rainfall. However, any rain filters rapidly through the vast expanse of sand, leaving nothing on the surface and turning it into a “thirstland.” In fact, the name kalahari is derived from the Tswana word, kgala which means, “the great thirst.”
Lacking permanent surface water, the Kalahari is a challenging place to live, except for those who have adapted to not only survive, but flourish here, like the African Bushmen. The Bushmen refer to it as the "Soul of the World." I remember learning about the Kalahari Desert in grade school, when we read and discussed a short story about a Bushman and his family and how they searched for food. That time, it felt like Africa was so far away. Who would have thought that one day, I would be standing on the Bushmen's beloved desert!
With its deep red dunes and endless grass plains interspersed with acacia's and shrubs, it is also home to a surprisingly large amount of specially adapted wildlife. Being there made me feel really small – a tiny creature in the middle of a mystifying collage of fiery sunsets, shifting crimson sands, and magnificent wildlife.
We were back at the lodge when the sky turned dark. We were told that they also offer hiking adventures for all levels, stargazing, and dinner on the dunes. But that night, we dined at the restaurant with a superb three-course meal, prepared in the Namibian way, and capped off with a couple of drinks at the bar while exchanging stories with our fellow travellers.
Before retiring for the night, my husband and I walked to the camp and looked at the night skies. With no light pollution to spoil the views, we reveled in one of the clearest views of the universe. Under the sparkling canopy of the stars, we watched the pristine heavens of the Southern Hemisphere with its constellations and occasional meteorites. Simply exhilarating!
Photo Credit:
letsbookhotel.com, Craig Faanes, Charles J. Sharp, wetu.com, cgtnafrica
Kommentare