We did return to Mont-Tremblant the following summer. We timed our visit with the “Tremblant Beneath the Stars” weekend and established the final dates for the hotel booking that we reserved with the resort company the year before. The resort agent told us we had a two-bedroom suite assigned to us at Le Sommet des Neiges, a lovely all-suite complex in the heart of the Pedestrian Village.
The hotel’s stately stone entrance welcomed us when we arrived. Inside, the décor is characterized by understated elegance with a hint of cottage flair – dark cherry-wood front desk, ceiling beams, wall panels, richly-patterned carpets, a stone fire-pit surrounded by upholstered chairs and couches, a small library on the side with wooden bookcases and a cozy gas fireplace, and several nooks and crannies ideal for a relaxing lounge. From there, we also glimpsed an outdoor patio with gas grills and a few people dining al fresco. There was also an outdoor pool with an adjacent whirlpool. Lovely!
Our room on the top floor exuded more of a modern alpine cottage, rather than a luxury hotel suite, which we found nice. It was spacious and simply decorated with beige and gray carpets and drapes, cherry-colored wood furniture and doors, and neutral-tone walls. We had a full kitchen with granite countertops, full-sized refrigerator, stove/oven, dishwasher, and an array of cooking pots and kitchen utensils, plus an ensuite stacked washer and dryer combo.
Our suite had large windows that let plenty of sunlight in to brighten the interior. There was an ample sized dining room, with a table for four, and an adjacent living room equipped a gas fireplace and entertainment system. French doors led to a small balcony with seating and views of the mountain and the village. We had two bedrooms, one on each side with a bathroom for each. Our son was excited to have his own room and bath, which made him feel so grown-up at the age of six. The bedrooms had comfortable beds, cherry-wood vanities, framed wall mirror, and a reading corner. Both bathrooms came with a big tub and a spacious glass-enclosed shower. Lovely indeed!
Our reservation included unlimited gondola passes, and the gondolas are literally in our backyard. From our balcony, one can watch the Cabriolet transporting visitors from the lower to the upper village and vice-versa. “My favourite ride,” our son exclaimed, recalling our visit from the previous summer.
The excitement of our arrival, however, was slightly overwrought by worry, and then disappointment. The weather that weekend did not look promising. Compared to our visit the previous year, when it was nice and sunny (even sweltering hot), that year, it was bleak and dismal. There was a forecast of heavy clouds and thundershowers.
My husband said things were not looking good for the stargazing event, for how could one enjoy the spectacular meteor shower if heavy clouds and rain upstaged them. And true enough, after a phone call to the astronomical society, he confirmed that the “Tremblant Beneath the Stars” event had been cancelled.
It was definitely a downer, because it was the main reason why we came. But all was not lost. There were other events and other activities that we could do around the village.
We took our son to the playground. He was drawn right away to the Climbing Tower. He remembered his practice climb the previous year, and he was proud of the fact that this year, he could already climb the bigger tower. However, he still was not interested in the Eurobungy-Trampoline and the Spiderweb. We were not big fans, either.
But he had his eyes on The Skyline Luge. At that age, he was very much into race cars (courtesy of Lightning McQueen). I told him that in order to reach the start of the track halfway up the mountain, he would have to board the chairlift. I recalled that a month earlier, when we were at the Whistler Resort in B.C., he refused to get on the chairlift. But this time, he relented. I guess the promise of being able to board a “race car” was enough to help him conquer his fear of open-air rides.
The chairlifts were two-seaters, so he sat with his Daddy. I took their picture before I boarded one on my own. As they “flew” to the top, I could hear him shrieking excitedly and saying, “Wheee!” At the top, he told us that the ride was not so bad after all and that from then on, he wouldn’t be scared anymore.
The “race cars” he wanted very much to ride, are actually low, three-wheel contraptions that are a cross between a go-kart and a toboggan. It is described as “a gravity ride” that provides riders full control over their descent on a purpose-built track. With a special braking and steering system, the “driver” is always in control and can go as fast or as slow as he likes.
For obvious reasons, our son couldn’t go by himself yet, so he rode with his Daddy again. But he negotiated with him - Daddy would be in charge of the brakes, but he would be the one to steer. Fair enough. I took one for myself and positioned my cart behind them.
This luge attraction is said to be the first in North America. As we prepped for our ride, we admired the magnificent view of the Laurentian Mountains in the horizon, the lush forest around us, and the pretty village below. Then, we zigzagged down a 1.4-kilometer trail that was full of twists and turns, not to mention that chaotic traffic of other luge riders around us. The cart was easy to navigate and made for an exhilarating downhill ride. I made sure I avoided the teens who were racing right beside us.
Before long, we were back at the base. The ride took only around seven minutes. We lined up a second time because our son wanted to go again. Luckily, there weren’t very many people around.
After our exhilarating ride, we explored the upper and lower villages again and spent more time at the shops that we found interesting the previous year. We also took the Cabriolet back and forth, our son’s favourite ride in the resort.
But as the afternoon progressed, the skies grew dimmer and heavier with gray clouds. We thought it would be wise to stay at the end of the Pedestrian Street closer to our hotel, because we brought only one umbrella. The boys were wearing their raincoats, but stubborn me did not bring one.
We thought we had time but we were caught by surprise by the sudden heavy downpour...so heavy that an umbrella would be useless. In short, we were trapped inside a shop, but we couldn’t stay there for too long because there were other people like us who were taking shelter there.
Across the street, there was sporting goods boutique and as if by coincidence, there was a huge sign on their window advertising raincoats at 50% off. I told my husband that we should at least check it out. The raincoats were indeed half the price (which is a big deal because this is a well-known and expensive Canadian brand), plus, they had my size and the coats were of the top-of-the-line variety. What a coincidence! Since it was pouring heavily and we were anticipating it would be like this for the next two days, and since I recalled I did not own a decent raincoat, I was meant to get one that day. We were definitely led to the right place at the right time.
When the rain dissipated, we walked back to our hotel, sat by the fireplace, and had a quiet snack. My husband said that since it was getting dark and the stargazing event had been postponed, we should just chill out that night and go for fine dining. Who was I to say, “no” to that?
We headed to La Forge Steakhouse that evening. My boys are big steak lovers and so, I was not surprised when my husband picked this place. Their specialty is meats grilled over maple-wood coals. I remember walking by the restaurant earlier that afternoon, right behind the fountains, and it was filled to the rafters. Apparently, its bar-bistro on the first floor is a popular après-ski hangout, and the restaurant on the second floor is a favourite of those who opt for gourmet dining.
The first floor exuded that warm and welcoming ambiance with a central bar, which was the hive of activity, and the glass windows that give you a glimpse of the ski slopes on one side and Place Saint-Bernard on the other, which was equally teeming with revelers getting ready for a concert. Place Saint-Bernard is the centre of the Pedestrian Village, and that weekend, there was a stage set-up for live performances.
The second floor, where the host led us, had a cozier and more subdued atmosphere, reminiscent of a mountain cabin with its rich wood, stone fireplace, high beams, and wrought-iron chandelier and lamps. On the walls, several blacksmith tools were on display, in keeping with the name of the restaurant (translated in English as “blacksmith’s shop”).
We learned that this building was actually a former blacksmith and ski shop. In the olden days, these shops did double-duty. Skiers went there to have their skis repaired and waxed while socializing and sharing mountain stories around a warm and toasty fireplace.
The restaurant also boasts of an impressive display of wines, scotches, cognacs, and eaux-de-vie, which was almost expected, since they offer fine sommelier service and has repeatedly won awards for both the bounty and the quality of their wine and spirits list.
And because we were in a steak house, we all ordered steaks – the 40-ounce Cowboy Steak for the boys (according to the menu, this is to share, but my husband could easily consume this much by himself), and the eight-ounce Filet Mignon La Forge with béarnaise sauce for me. I got a salad on the side, while the boys opted for mashed potatoes. I was tempted to order an appetizer from their wonderful menu. Sometimes, my eyes are bigger than my mouth, but that time, I was sure the steak was going to be a heavy meal and was more than enough. It was a good thing that I did not because at the end of the meal, I was too full to order dessert. We did take advantage of the sommelier service. We were given excellent recommendations for wine and cognac to pair with our food. And I must say, the steaks were cooked to perfection – tender and juicy…and just divine!
Since our table was right next to the balcony, we had a good view of the stage down below and could follow the concert’s progress from the lights and sound check to the opening number. As we ended our meal and lingered over coffee, the notes from the concert’s front act permeated the air and slowly, the small crowd gathered in the centre of the square began to expand. By the time we left the restaurant, a huge crowd had already formed in front of the stage and the numbers were getting more upbeat. There were people dancing and jumping about.
Our son wanted to stay to see what was going on, and soon enough, we saw him standing on a bench and dancing. My husband and I looked at each other and said, “We’ve got ourselves a party boy here.”
Naturally, he declared that he got it from me. I protested and told him I was not a party girl. But he reminded me about the celebrity parties I attended when I was active in the TV industry, so that should count, even though I was there for work. Before I could protest again, we felt trickles down our faces. It had started to rain and we did not even notice it. We moved under the shade of the trees and to our amusement, our little boy danced his way from the bench to our little covered corner. We stayed for a few more minutes before we called it a night.
Our party boy said, “That was fun!” He slept soundly that night.
Photo Credits:
tremblant.ca, lessuitestremblant.com, laforgetremblant.com
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